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Sunday, June 22
We all slept in a little but once we woke up and had breakfast,(7:30) we all headed down to the Catholic Church, located in the center of Santiago. The church was built in 1547 by the Spanish and has undergone many renovations since then. The relationship between the Catholic Church and the old Mayan ways is not nearly as harmonious as the relationship that we observed in Chichicastenango. The shaman are viewed as “bad” men and there is no sharing of sacred space observed here. In fact, there is some tension between the local Evangelicals and the Catholic Church. After walking around the church for a bit, we headed next door to the Father Stan Rother memorial. Father Stan was a young priest from Oklahoma who dedicated his life to servitude in Guatemala. He learned to speak the native language and delivered his sermons in Tzitujil. He was very popular among his Catholic followers, however not as popular among the local Evangelicals, who viewed him as a supporter of the guerilla movement. Fearing for his life, he left the country for several years during the civil war. He returned only to be gunned down in his home by the Guatemalan army, supposedly guilty of aiding the guerilla movement. The memorial is very 
simple, his quarters are preserved and a small plaque commemorates a life of service. As per request of the Mayan people with whom he worked, his heart is buried beneath the church, because his heart was always in Guatemala. After the Father Stan memorial, we divided up a bit. Diane, Diana and I (Rose) headed back to the Elder Center to talk with Chonita about future plans for the center. Meanwhile, the rest of the group met up with three scholarship students (Sara, Juana and Juanita) to go to the local market and buy some food for an afternoon cooking lesson. Since I was not there for the cooking (although the food turned out marvelously) I will turn this portion of the journal over to Shanna.

Hi, Shanna here.  Well, we met the three girls in town and after introductions we headed to the market.  I have to say our guides were quite brave leading us through the crowded and bustling market as we towered over the locals and quite obviously, were not from around there.  We set out to purchase ingredients to make “Patin” and “Tomalitos,” both local “Santiago” style dishes.  Our grocery list to make patin included:  beef, tomatoes, yerba blanca, and huge leaves (from a banana tree).  “The ingredients for the tomalitos included:  maiz, and smaller, skinnier leaves from the “Milpa” tree.  After we squeezed through the stands of vegetables, spices, fruits and chopping blocks we made our way back to the center to cook. 

Shopping trip

The girls, all of whom are “Sharing the Dream” scholarship recipients, were very patient and sweet as they demonstrated how to prepare the dishes.  I think we all gained an appreciation of the time it takes to prepare the food as it took hours to shop, prepare and cook those delicious dishes.  This was the first time a cooking class was included in the agenda as well as the first time the girls had ever taught cooking. Everyone chowed down on a fine meal and agreed that this should remain on future itineraries. After a nice lunch, we all rested while we waited for a group of parents from the nearby Chacaya School to arrive to speak with us about building a retaining wall for their new school building. They were very late and we were all wondering if they were going to show up at all. They finally arrived and had a very different cost estimate to build the wall than Diane had expected. The original estimate was $6,200 but the estimate that the group brought us was for $20,000, Quite a jump! (The wall is being built by a great group called Peg Partners. They are working through STDG.)  So while Diane and Diana and the school board tried to sort out the reason for such a jump in price, all of us sort of marveled at Diane’s staying power. She would not budge and firmly explained to them that we were not able to pay that amount. They kept looking at her like she was going to magically come up with a check for $20,000. By the end of the meeting, however, the board had agreed to meet us tomorrow morning with a new estimate. 

We were running a bit late, so we hurriedly said good bye to the parents and met up with Chonita, who had uncharacteristically requested to be our tour guide to the Peace Park. She started our walk to the park by narrating a series of events that had taken place in early 1990. She told how one night, some drunken Guatemalan soldiers had gone into town looking for girls (there was a large army base just outside of Santiago). When they went into a house and the girl cried for help, a man from the village tried to settle the situation and was shot twice. Then, the villagers rang the alarm bell in front of the church and the entire village gathered and began to march toward the army base to confront the soldiers. She told us that the town people were all unarmed. Once they arrived at the base, all of the soldiers were waiting for them. The soldiers did not wait to hear what the villagers had to say, rather they fired at random into the crowd of civilians. Chonita then led us down a narrow path into the woods where we came upon what used to be the captain of the army’s office. It was not much to look at, just a small cinderblock structure, however Chonita told us that during the war, there would have been soldiers throughout the forest, and many others lying in wait at the commander’s office, rifles ready. She then proceeded to explain to us the atrocities that were committed on that very spot. How the soldiers would round up people from villages around the lake, and throw them in a large pit that they had dug as a sort of prison. Any one suspected of being “subversive” or anyone with supposed ties to the guerillas was detained and often never heard from again. She told us in graphic detail the things that the Guatemalan army did to her husband, an innocent farmer whose “subversive” action was to leave the town to check on his corn . He was tortured, his body mutilated to the point where she could only recognize half of his face. He suffered horribly. It was a very emotional moment as Chonita explained to us how she would never be able to forget what happened, nor would she ever be able to love someone like she had loved her first love. She then told us how her desire to help other widows who were unable to make ends meet after suffering through the same atrocities. She explained that the elder center allowed her to give some of the love that she had in her heart to others. There was not a dry eye among our group after she finished her story. She explained that although her life had been hard, it was much harder for others who were not able to weave or to speak Spanish. We all felt very honored to have heard the story from Chonita herself. We then walked back to Peace Park, I think all of us silently reflecting on what we consider to be the hardships in our lives, and paid our respects to the innocents who lost their lives that day in what is now the Peace Park.

We were all pretty drained, so it was the perfect night to have our “fancy” dinner at the Posada, the posh restaurant where the expats and gringos congregate. The food was terrific and we all overdid it by splitting a chocolate brownie and ice cream. That night, during our group reflection, Diane remarked that it was very seldom that Chonita tells the group her story. It was very difficult for her to speak about her past, but I think that we all felt closer for having experienced it together.


Monday, June 23

This morning after breakfast, we went to Chacaya to see the temporary school that they are teaching out of, as well as to see the progress on the construction of a brand new school building. We were all anxious to see if the school board had come up with an alternate proposal for the retaining wall. To give you an idea of how important the retaining wall is to the school, the land that was purchased for the new school was at a severe incline. The parents chose the land because it was the only piece of land for sale that was nearby the old school and that was within the budget (STGIG supplied the funding for the purchase of the land). So, the parents were determined to make it work. Together with their children, they used machetes and shovels and  leveled the land! They did have some tractor help at the end but it was primarily the work of the parents and students that readied the land for construction. That being said, the land will soon erode if a retaining wall is not in place to prevent this. The parents seemed very concerned that construction on the wall begins as soon as possible, as the rainy season is already well underway. As Diane had predicted, they had come up with a new estimate $7,400 for the construction of the wall, a price that everyone could agree on. The parents seemed very happy. Diane informed us that they had been very confused as to a good price and were being taken advantage of by a greedy contractor who was looking to make an extra profit. Diane met with the new contractor and he explained what was going to happen.  The parent group had worked all night and talked to 3 different contractors and had gone and seen some of the work that this man had done. (Note from Diane… I think David and Carolyn from PEG Partners will be proud of the negotiations.)

While Diane talked business, we took a tour of the school. The children were very charming and greeted us warmly. The liitle ones sang for us and the first graders were particularly enamored with Katterina who showed them the pictures that she was taking of them with her digital camera. Sharing the Dream is paying one of the teachers salaries. However, we learned that the other 5 teachers have been working without pay for the last three months, as the Guatemalan government has not written them any checks. The teachers were all very dedicated to the children. They expressed gratitude for all of the school supplies. (Calvary Lutheran in Rapid City has been donating boxes of supplies for this school). In one classroom, the children held up their pens to show us that they were using them. We then went to see the new school that was being built.  It is wonderful.  There were 6 classrooms, a room for a clinic, a kitchen and bathrooms.   A local Guatemalan company Anacafe is building it for them. They won’t have any desks, books etc. but we have been gathering donations and will probably be able to provide for a lot of this. 

Our adventure only continued when were about to leave. The teachers informed us that they had spotted some notorious robbers on the road (no doubt they had been alerted to our presence and were waiting for us to pass by in our pickup). The teachers came up with a plan to accompany us in the pickup. There was a bit of tension as we all handed our cameras to the pickup driver (who promised to drive quickly) and crouched down in the back of the pickup with coats over us.  Then all five members of the school board stood over us in the pickup and we picked up several other locals on the way. All this to try and maintain the illusion that this was just another bunch of locals, heading into town. We were relieved to hear the “all clear” from the driver about ten minutes down the road. So we were able to get uncovered and stand up. Diane could have billed this as an adventure tour! After our brush with danger, we went to watch the beaders and purchase some jewelry.  We then went  to visit some houses that STDG helped to build in a town just outside of Santiago. The entire area had basically been swept away by hurricane Stan. The remnants of the damage were evident, there were still boulders scattered across the road and refuse littering the streets. There were many houses, but just one family was home. It was a very sweet little family and they were grateful for the help. STDG helped build 20 homes after the hurricane.  This was with the help of Trinity Lutheran in Vermillion and many other people.   However, they did not have access to running water (they were buying it from a wealthy neighbor) and they did not have latrines.

After that, we went to see Diane’s friend, Hermberto, a local who is very skilled with woodworking and has a little shop as well as a workshop in Santiago. We first visited the shop, where there were all sorts of souvenirs and wood carvings that were obviously made by very skilled hands. Then we went back to the workshop where we were given a demonstration on how they make these little wooded puzzle boxes. If any of you have been to the STDG store, you probably know what I am talking about.  We had dinner at the Elder Center and then had an impromtu fashion show, with all of us dressing up in Tzutuhil clothes.  We had a great time laughing with Chonita, Diana, Felipa and Bernevela.  We all slept quite well that night.

Group in traditional dress.
   
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